G'day. Going to share with you why I do what I do, how I got started and what it means to me to be in the ocean every day.
How I Got Started
As a surfer, not a very good one, I was getting up an hour before sunrise every morning and paddling out into the line up. As the sun starts to rise, the sky starts to light up and the surface of the ocean reflects and interacts with the light. Every time I would paddle out, I would notice all these details, how the ripples interplayed with the reflection of the sun, and how the sun would light up the back of a wave. I started thinking about how I could show other people what I was seeing. As it turns out, I had dabbled with landscape photography years earlier, so I was pretty comfortable with a camera and all I needed was something to keep it safe from the ocean.
I got my first housing, just weeks later, freshly made by the hero’s at Liquid Eye Water Housings, and I jumped in head first into creating my first ocean/surf images. I can tell you, I was terrible.
What It Means To Me
Years later, I am somewhat a little better at capturing the images I see in my mind, but more importantly is the journey I'm on in the kind of conditions I'm comfortable swimming in. Everyone has limits and safety is an important aspect of what I do. Knowing when to stay dry on the beach is just as important as knowing when to click the shutter to capture the perfect moment. The ocean has many moods, sometimes it's calm and peaceful, other times it is angry and wild. Both are beautiful, and in a way you have to surrender yourself to the ocean to push those instinctive limits that keep you safe and dry on the beach.
So, everyday, one hour before sunrise, I get up, prep my camera, pull on the wetsuit (usually wet and cold) and make my way to the beach, ready to jump in and capture the beauty that I see. It gives me a sense of purpose, belonging and a challenge.